Butterflies on the Beach and a Full Moon – George’s Second Thai Christmas
A frantic end to the working year finally ends in the Business Lounge at Heathrow where my friend Peter and I have a quiet tipple before boarding the direct flight to Bangkok. As before, Eva Air take off late but the service is excellent. 12 hours later, bright sunshine greets us over Thailand and from 10,000 feet I am looking down on what looks like a toy aeroplane landing at the new Suvarnabhumi airport. A long left-hand circuit takes us out over the Gulf of Siam and the long final approach ends with us touching down smoothly to the sound of jingle bells and a temperature of 30 deg Celsius – something I have still yet to get used to.
By the time I am through the stricter immigration and security checks, Peter’s limo has whisked him off to Pattaya but two friends are there to take me to my hotel in the Sathorn district of Bangkok. News of my arrival has spread and next day an old friend invites me to his club which has a decent jazz combo on that night. We are getting hungry by this time, so we walk past the members’ racehorse stables for 5 minutes to a humble little restaurant where roast cow’s udder is added to George’s list of exotic delights tried in Thailand. The cow’s tongue and liver are beautifully cooked too and soft in texture – something few restaurants seem to manage as both these dishes are very easy to overcook.
As a balance to all this pleasure, two days later I am back at the same dental hospital as last year, for a check and to have some mercury fillings replaced. This reveals a problem with one of my molars requiring a root canal treatment which will be done by a specialist.
After 4 days in Bangkok, we repair to Sunset Village http://www.sunsetvillage.co.th/ just outside Pattaya for 3 days in a chalet by the beach. Within 5 minutes of dumping my suitcase on the bed, I am in the warm sea swimming lazily for a change and a butterfly rushes off when I lumber back to my chalet later. The holiday village seems to be full of Germans, and Russians for which there are dedicated cable channels. Half of the holiday reading books left behind by previous guests are in German and among the local newspapers available, is Pattaya Blatt http://www.pattayablatt.com/ the newspaper for German expats in Thailand – there is a Russian one too.
Quickly, I drop into a sort of routine with a good nap in the afternoon but this and getting up late throws my sleep patterns into complete disarray and twice in the 3 nights there, I find myself sitting outside the chalet watching the waves roll in under the nearly full moon. This of course, is on its side as we are further south but the constellation of Orion is clearly visible and Sirius (the dog star) and brightest in the sky is much higher than when seen from the UK. Canopus, the second-brightest star is visible further south. At about 3 a.m. someone with a hand torch is slowly walking along the edge of the surf searching for something. My curiosity overcomes me and the guy shows me a bag of small edible crabs he has collected. Other lights from fishing boats twinkle out in the bay and the bright lights of Pattaya and Sattahip are visible all night. After 90 minutes, I get the feeling that I ought to try and keep a reasonably normal sleep pattern so I go back inside the chalet.
For Christmas Day itself, we have been invited to a party in Hua Hin on the west side of the Gulf of Siam and the Sirin Hotel http://www.sirinhotelhuahin.com/html/map.htm where I stayed last year, has rooms. The party turns out to be a grand do with equal numbers of Thais and ex-pats, loads of turkey, pork etc with all of us sitting by the side of a rather large pool. The co-host turns out to be a retired USAF officer and we have a great time swapping flying stories. He proudly shows me his pride and joy – a large cross-bred dog which is actually 85 per cent wolf! Several of the local guests have sky-diving badges as parachute training seems to be part of regime for the police here. When I mention that one of my daughters really enjoyed a tandem jump a few years ago, I am promised that she would be welcome to have one in Thailand should she return there – could be an interesting thing to mention in my father-of-the-bride speech at her wedding in July….
In Hua Hin, the local bookshops offer Thai/Swedish/Russian/German and other dictionaries together with a reasonable selection of thrillers and romantic stuff, but Retiring in Thailand by Philip Bryce catches my eye. Reviews of this book published 2006, show that it is US-biased and needs a bit of updating but one wonders how many copies are sold each year…One can live very cheaply in Thailand but as one reviewer said, do you want to spend the rest of your life on a bar stool? Hope I don’t get trampled in the rush here.
My dental appointment beckons me back to Bangkok but not before a couple of cans of Chang beer with my English chums in Hua Hin, the details of which will have to stay in a men-only version of another blog. Quotes for the cost of getting back to Bangkok vary from Baht 90 for the cheapest bus, Baht 200 for an air-conditioned mini-bus, Baht 3,150 for the Cessna air-taxi service (flight time 35 minutes). As the journey from Suvarnabhumi airport into town will be much longer than the flight, I settle for the Baht 2,200 taxi (including nearly 2 hours waiting time) direct to my new hotel thus enabling me to get some work reading done in comfort – should make an interesting entry in my CPD log.
The actual root canal treatment has me in the chair for 1 hour 15 minutes but with her Dallas training, gentle touch and very modern equipment, discomfort could not have been made less – worst was a slight neck-ache from having to keep my mouth wide open for so long. Next day with no side effects or pain, I decide to visit my Bangkok tailor again using my favourite suit as a template.
Having previously horrified my Thai friends with my journeys on the licensed taxi-bikes, I can spare the time for a slower taxi ride today as it is a holiday and the traffic is light. The journey starts with an argument with the taxi-driver who gives me a small brochure of his favourite tailor which would give him a handsome commission, much more than he would earn for a taxi ride, if we went to him instead. Phoning my guy, I give the handset to the driver to confirm the address and eventually he accepts that we are going to my tailor rather than his.
While Christmas is marked in hotels and shops with signs and carols, in terms of activity, it is pretty much a non-event and if you want you car washed on Christmas Day – no problem. New Year is taken more seriously and some places are closed for four days including the weekend – so I had better find an internet place which is open…. Happy 2008.